Upgrading a 1911

I have decided to upgrade one of my RIA 1911's. So far I have ordered Pachmeyer ALS grips, extended mag release, Wilson Combat match link, Wilson Combat Spring Kit, and a compensator.

I also ordered some recoil buffers but have been advised not to use them.

Also considering replacing the skeletonized trigger with a Wilson Combat Competition Match trigger and a one piece Wilson Combat recoil spring guide. (Opinions?)

Right now I am priced out of a new barrel but what else would you all recommend?

Thanks
J

What are you using this gun for? What's its pupose?

Your title really had me confused as there isn't a grade above the 1911. When I read the post I see you just want to swap a few parts out.

I personally have never seen the need for a full length recoil spring guide. As I understand the purpose of one is to reduce drag during cycling thus speeding the follow-up shot. I can't shoot fast enough to need that nano second and hate the disassembly process required by one.

Grips should the first parts change. The better you hold the better you shoot it. You have that covered. After that it would go to a smith for trigger work. Only after that would I start swapping parts.

1911s are like 10/22s. Everybody makes parts for them that the user can swap. Getting it customized to your satisfaction is most of the fun of ownership. A cool looking skeletonized hammer or racey looking vented trigger will not enhance performance enough that most of us would notice...but they sure dress up a pistol.

Unless the RIA can't be made to group I would spend my dimes on grips, trigger, sights then cool stuff in that order.

Throw away the recoil buffers...all they will do is eventually fail on you at a very bad time...

BTW - I need to collect that 100 rds of 45 ACP ammo from our "bet"...

Shooter wrote:

I personally have never seen the need for a full length recoil spring guide. As I understand the purpose of one is to reduce drag during cycling thus speeding the follow-up shot. I can't shoot fast enough to need that nano second and hate the disassembly process required by one.

You're thinking of a 2 piece full length guide rod. Now THAT is a stupid invention! You have to use a hex wrench to take it down.

A one piece FLGR can be taken down without tools. Although, the butt of a magazine to depress the plug does help, but is far from necessary after the spring has been used a little

Tanker, I have a High Standard, which is practically identical to your RIA, and I've gotta say, I wouldn't waste the money on it. It's a fine gun without all that stuff! But it's too low end to justify spending that kind of money on IMO. Sights and grips are all I would worry about. Maybe a beavertail grip safety...maybe

Not to hijack TOO bad, but tell me more about the recoil buffer problems. I may have fallen into this trap.

Paul

Sights before anything else. Especially if they are GI sights.

The Trigger won't affect your trigger pull to any noticeable degree. It's the hammer and sear that will give you any worthwhile improvement. You could buy a trigger kit like this one but it is only going to be worth the money if the sear and hammer pin holes on your gun are exactly within spec.

The match link most likely won't do anything. If it does, it will be random chance. 1911's draw their accuracy from barrel fitting. If the link is oversized, you could actually end up shearing the locking lugs of the slide or barrel. Again, I'd suggest a good set of sights more than anything.

The spring kit may affect recoil impulse, a lot of guys like to use lighter springs to make the gun shoot "flatter." Dropping the mainspring weight down can also make the trigger pull lighter, but can also cause light strikes. But unless your mainspring is below 17lbs I wouldn't be concerned.

The compensator: I'm guessing you ordered a bushing compensator. I.e., a barrel bushing that has a compensator attached. If you're expecting a reduction in recoil, send it back without taking it out of the packaging. The only way to get worthwhile muzzle flip reduction is to use a real compensator that is threaded or actually integral to the barrel. Like this one.

A compensator works by redirecting gas upwards which creates a downward force to counteract the torque created by the slide moving rearward. The cheap bushing comp does not fit tightly to the bore, so the gasses simply flow around the bullet, and not through the ports in the compensator. The only muzzle flip reduction you'll get is from the extremely small amount of weight you've added to the front of the gun.

As a rule, with the exception of maybe the legitimate drop in trigger kits (which, like I said, depend on the geometry of the gun being extremely accurate) if it's a "drop-in" part on a 1911, it's either a lie or not worth it.

All that being said, If you want the cool parts to dress it up, go for it. Everybody loves go-fast, cool guy parts.

But then again, what the hell do I know?

p moore wrote:Not to hijack TOO bad, but tell me more about the recoil buffer problems. I may have fallen into this trap.

Paul

Some people say that the recoil buffers can cause more problems than they help. It's possible to shred the buffer if you're not careful and replace it often. I run them in my STI-framed limited gun and I've never had a problem. I change mine every 2000-3000 rounds and I don't worry about it.

It's not absolutely necessary. If you're using a factory recoil spring, don't worry about using one. If you're not shooting 10,000+ rounds a year through the gun, don't worry about using one.

I had just noticed a last round feeding problem, and thought if the buffer had changed anything.

Paul

Thanks for all the input. Havent received any of that stuff in the mail yet and plan on sending most of it back. I have been looking at sights but everyone I look at says they require a gunsmith to install. Never did anything with sights myself, thinking its time to learn something new. So, going to keep the Pachmeyer ALS Grips, install new sights and I do want the extended mag release. I think that sounds better than adding all that worthless junk.

p moore wrote:I had just noticed a last round feeding problem, and thought if the buffer had changed anything.

Paul

I doubt the buffer has anything to do with the last round not feeding properly. Try a different (high quality) magazine and see if that changes something. Or describe the problem further.

TankerHC wrote:Thanks for all the input. Havent received any of that stuff in the mail yet and plan on sending most of it back. I have been looking at sights but everyone I look at says they require a gunsmith to install. Never did anything with sights myself, thinking its time to learn something new. So, going to keep the Pachmeyer ALS Grips, install new sights and I do want the extended mag release. I think that sounds better than adding all that worthless junk.

I agree.

Most likely you'll have to have the slide cut for new sights, plus the cost of the sights themselves. It's expensive, but there's not much point in adding all these parts if you don't have a good sighting system.

I've used buffers in my 1911 since I have had it with no problems. I am shooting now with a 12lb. recoil spring and do change the buffers often. I have not been using them in my limited gun. Maybe I should. I agree with Will_M. I have never had a drop-in just drop in.

The wilson combat recoil buffers will shred on you eventually...and anyway they don't help much anyway.....

My personal opinion is...if you need recoil buffers...then maybe you should not be shootn a 45

I personally hate FL Guide rods as well...If JMB did not need need em..neither do you...Everybody wants to run a 1911 "tight"...it was designed to be a loose running gun so that it was reliable.

Most of the folks I saw with FTF and FTE problems in USPSA were shooting tricked out 45's...

One more thing...if you are thinking about shooting single stack in USPSA...read over the rules and make sure all your mods keep your gun legal

Good Luck

Recoil buffers shred, period. That's what they're supposed to do. They help absorb the energy from the slide slamming into the frame. Anytime you have metal banging against metal, there will eventually be metal fatigue. Granted it would take nearly forever for this to happen in low round count guns but an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Having one in a gun used for competition, can only increase the life of the gun, IMO. Same thing goes for one used for target practice or plinking. I've used buffers almost from the day I bought my Colt and have never had an issue caused by one being chewed up by the spring. When you clean the gun, inspect the buffer pad. When in doubt, toss it out. Others may have had a bad expierience, but anyone I've known to use them had nothing but good results.

The "if JMB didn't add it.." line is so old, tired and worn out that it's no longer relevant and it needs to die (never been relevant for that matter). Browning didn't design the 1911 with a magwell or adjustable sights either. I'd like to see someone defend the stock gi sights on a 1911 or try and argue that a magwell doesn't significantly improve reloads. Browning was a brilliant man, but just because he designed it doesn't mean there isn't room for improvement. He designed the m2 machine gun as well, and its been upgraded several times to improve on an already great design, but certainly not perfect. Furthermore, shock buffs aren't designed toreduce recoil for supposed girly men trying to shoot 45, they are designed to protect the weapon. 95% of gun owners won't shoot it enough to matter, but people who rely on their weapons for competition or duty and shoot regularly it is there to protect the weapon.

Also, faint and fall out, I've seen just as many glocks choke as 1911's and other guns. It doesn't matter what gun it is, they all have their failure points and it's wise no matter what brand you favor to acknowledge that in addition to their strong points and drop the campy sales pitches. /rant

Myers wrote:The "if JMB didn't add it.." line is so old, tired and worn out that it's no longer relevant and it needs to die (never been relevant for that matter). Browning didn't design the 1911 with a magwell or adjustable sights either. I'd like to see someone defend the stock gi sights on a 1911 or try and argue that a magwell doesn't significantly improve reloads. Browning was a brilliant man, but just because he designed it doesn't mean there isn't room for improvement. He designed the m2 machine gun as well, and its been upgraded several times to improve on an already great design, but certainly not perfect. Furthermore, shock buffs aren't designed toreduce recoil for supposed girly men trying to shoot 45, they are designed to protect the weapon. 95% of gun owners won't shoot it enough to matter, but people who rely on their weapons for competition or duty and shoot regularly it is there to protect the weapon.

Also, faint and fall out, I've seen just as many glocks choke as 1911's and other guns. It doesn't matter what gun it is, they all have their failure points and it's wise no matter what brand you favor to acknowledge that in addition to their strong points and drop the campy sales pitches. /rant

I completely agree. Thank you for your well thought out insight.

Muleskinner wrote:Recoil buffers shred, period. That's what they're supposed to do. They help absorb the energy from the slide slamming into the frame. Anytime you have metal banging against metal, there will eventually be metal fatigue. Granted it would take nearly forever for this to happen in low round count guns but an ounce of prevention is worth a pound of cure. Having one in a gun used for competition, can only increase the life of the gun, IMO. Same thing goes for one used for target practice or plinking. I've used buffers almost from the day I bought my Colt and have never had an issue caused by one being chewed up by the spring. When you clean the gun, inspect the buffer pad. When in doubt, toss it out. Others may have had a bad expierience, but anyone I've known to use them had nothing but good results.

Question, just what metal to metal contact is a shock buff preventing? They fit between the recoil spring and the head of the guide rod. The slide shouldn't be hitting the head of the guide rod anyway,even at full recoil so just what are they helping? If it is that means your recoil spring is too light or worn out.
They take up the small gap at full recoil between the slide and guide rod head creating contact between the slide and guide rod head and also creating more pressure on the head of guide rod, that wouldn't be there without them.
Based on experience with them I think they are a gimmick and do nothing to protect a weapon. I bought some 30yrs ago when Wilson first started making them, after about 300 rounds the head sheard off the guide rod in my Springfield 1911, I will never put another Shok buff in a 1911 I own again.

Kimber,Les Bauer, and Ed Brown all don't recommend using them in their 1911s, and Wilson Combat the first to make Shok-Buffs doesn't doesn't even put them in their custom guns, hmmmm Odd don't you think?

I have always liked what a member at 1911forums said about Shok Buffs, There main function was they are a money transfer device, one more thing that your gun doesn't need to properly function which allows others to make more money.

bubbat wrote:
Question, just what metal to metal contact is a shock buff preventing? They fit between the recoil spring and the head of the guide rod. The slide shouldn't be hitting the head of the guide rod anyway,even at full recoil so just what are they helping? If it is that means your recoil spring is too light or worn out.

Wrong. If your slide is being completely stopped by the recoil spring then something is very wrong. The "head" of the guide rod is impacted by the slide, which transfers energy to the frame.

I say again. If you can take off your top end and push your guide rod all the way forward without the head of the guide rod touching the slide, i.e. the spring keeps it from going all the way forward, your spring has too many coils and you are short-stroking the gun.

Will_M wrote:

Wrong. If your slide is being completely stopped by the recoil spring then something is very wrong. The "head" of the guide rod is impacted by the slide, which transfers energy to the frame.

I say again. If you can take off your top end and push your guide rod all the way forward without the head of the guide rod touching the slide, i.e. the spring keeps it from going all the way forward, your spring has too many coils and you are short-stroking the gun.

Will- in my experience I am right, first 1911 I ever bought,in 1980, took to a local gunsmith who was pretty well acquainted with 1911s been building them since the late 1930's to replace the G.I. sights, and took every one I owned since to till he pass away. He always set the pistol up with a Wolff 18# recoil spring and trimmed spring tunnel to clear the head of the guide rod by .003in or .004in at the most at full recoil, said wasn't any need for them to make contact and let the spring do the work. That has worked well for me since, it's been done on every 1911 I have ever owned, no short stoking, no jamming and no battering of the recoil guide rod or frame. I just take a file and do it myself now.

So we will have to agree to disagree.