To crimp or not to crimp

PLet's see if I got this right. Crimping can only be done on a bullet with a cannelure? Seating dies don't crimp? Would all semi-autos need crimped bullets or just heavy recoiling ones? What does everyone do?


Are there any resources for loading sub sonic rounds?

I have reloaded thousands of .30-06 and .308 Win rounds for m1 and M1a rifles as well as .223 for AR15 and have NEVER crimped the first cartridge. I consider it a non-issue,

Doug

crazyace85 wrote:PLet's see if I got this right. Crimping can only be done on a bullet with a cannelure? NO with a taper crimp, and YES with a roll crimp.

Seating dies don't crimp? Yes they do, but it is better to crimp at another stage. Either use an additional die (progressive press) or remove the bullet seat plug (single-stage press).

Would all semi-autos need crimped bullets or just heavy recoiling ones? The main thing here is.... Are we talking handguns or rifles? Semi-auto handgun rounds are taper crimped. Heavy recoil revolvers and tube-fed guns need a roll crimp.

What does everyone do? I have both crimped and not for rifle ammo. For ammo like 223, 308, 30-06 I do not crimp. I either taper or roll crimp all handgun ammo.


Are there any resources for loading sub sonic rounds? Don't really understand this question...

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I also taper crimp all semi-auto pistol ammo and roll crimp all revolver ammo. I also roll crimp all rifle ammo that is going to be used in a tubular magazine.

Doug

How do y'all do your 223

crazyace85 wrote:How do y'all do your 223

No crimp.

Like Captain and Doug said..... no crimp on 223s.

I do slightly chamfer the inside of the case mouth (doesn't matter if the case was trimmed or not). This just provides a smooth edge when seating bullets.

Crazy, as you will learn..... Reloading rifle ammo requires MUCH MORE WORK than handgun ammo.

Edited to add: I clean primer pockets on rifle ammo, and not on handgun ammo. I do however, not weight each powder charge. I set the powder measure, check it a few more times... then start cranking its handle.


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Good deal. I just gotta get some 223 brass and bullets. I have spent too much already.

There is also a die from Lee called the "factory crimp" die. It's a different way of crimping than taper or roll crimp. It can be done on any bullet with or without cannelure. It's a separate die from the bullet seating die.

I have been having feeding issues with my .45 semi auto. Would the taper crimp solve the feeding issue?

useto wrote:I have been having feeding issues with my .45 semi auto. Would the taper crimp solve the feeding issue?

Maybe not......... FIRST, what type (make & model) of 45 are you talking about........?

Some 45 pistols don't like certain shaped bullets. What type of bullets are you shooting.....?

We need MORE details...............

.

... yep -- more info required -- cast bullet or jacketed? Bullet style and weight? Gun? Will the rounds chamber and gun go into battery ...

Sure it isn't a magazine problem ...

I crimp all my 55gr .223 rounds because they have a cannelure and they are used on semi-and automatic rifles.
The cannelure is also handy for determining if the COL is correct.
How.. I know all my cases are within .001 +/-. If I barely see the cannelure, the bullet is seated correctly.

On these rounds I use a dillon taper crimp on them. The tapered section only covers the cannelure itself, and keeps bullet setback. Ive really got a force the forward assist to set one back. It will not happen under buffer spring pressure alone.

Roll crimps scare me. I could write a thesis on that topic.


I also weigh every round on a digital scale. A 55gr FMJ round weight 172-176 grs depending on the case and charge. Its a surefire squib check

nato LC and WCC cases I load for velocity (3100 fps) with CCI #41 and 25.5 gr WC 844 (aka h335)

all others are powderpuff loads, CCI #450's and 24.7 gr of WC 844T (aka H335 for tracers) These are normally 2800 plus in a M4

captain-03 wrote:... yep -- more info required -- cast bullet or jacketed? Bullet style and weight? Gun? Will the rounds chamber and gun go into battery ...

Sure it isn't a magazine problem ...

polishing a feedramp wont hurt

Sorry for the delay guys. Sometimes life gets in the way.
Ruger P97 with factory mags (FYI, never have problems with factory rounds)
Lyman Pro Turrret press
RCBS 3-Die Carbide TC set
Bullets: Hornady 200 GR HP/XTP
Powder: Bullseye 5.7 grains
Mic'ed to 1.18 OAL
Data from Lyman 48th edition.
I haven't loaded since the spring but I recall that it would misfeed and I could ease the slide back and repositon the round and release the slide and it would then close; not something I enjoy doing. In the past I've only loaded for revolvers or bolt action rifles, semi autos are something new for me.
Any and all recommendations appreciated.

jhud wrote:

captain-03 wrote:... yep -- more info required -- cast bullet or jacketed? Bullet style and weight? Gun? Will the rounds chamber and gun go into battery ...

Sure it isn't a magazine problem ...

polishing a feedramp wont hurt

Would you polish it with a dremel and rouge paste or something more aggresive?

OK - we are talking pistol ... Yes, a crimp certainly may be need to get a good feed. Remember, you bell the case inorder to get the bullet to seat into the case - accordingly, you need to take the bell out once the bullet is seated. You would use a taper crimp for this - NOT a roll crimp. (Roll crimps are usually reserved for revolvers).

What type dies are you using? - I would image a 3 die set .. your taper crimp stage is combined with your bullet seating die in most sets. Adjust your seating/crimping die and seat a couple bullets .. take the barrel from your pistol and drop the newly seated bullets into the chamber - if it fits flush you are usually good to go .. if it does not fit flush, add just a bit more taper crimp - try it again ...

useto wrote:

jhud wrote:

captain-03 wrote:... yep -- more info required -- cast bullet or jacketed? Bullet style and weight? Gun? Will the rounds chamber and gun go into battery ...

Sure it isn't a magazine problem ...

polishing a feedramp wont hurt

Would you polish it with a dremel and rouge paste or something more aggresive?

start with something gentle. The dremel and rub compound normally works fine.

Ive been using the LEE factory crimp die..
I have had some bullets setback in the case at random, now after using the factory crimp die i havent had that problem.. plus it fills that 4th hole in the Dillon

The true rimless cartridge has a head which is no larger than the body of the cartridge is at some point further forward... As the rim is no larger than the body, it cannot be used to limit the forward motion of the cartridge when it is seated in the chamber, and this must be accomplished in some other manner. With the .45 ACP cartridge this is done by leaving the forward end of the cartridge, that is, the mouth, square, instead of crimping it onto the bullet as is done with most other pistol or revolver cartridges. A square shoulder or ledge is left at the front end of the chamber and the mouth of the case seats against this square ledge.

Hatcher's notebook p236.